Art-knife forges in Thiers, techno cathedrals in Lyon, 5,000 trail runners in the Chartreuse range: twelve Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes picks for Ascension 2026.
From one end of the region to the other, the Ascension long weekend reveals just how wide Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes can spread its wings: world capital of artisan knives in Thiers, industrial wastelands turned electronic cathedrals in Lyon, candle-lit chapels, steep Chartreuse trails, illuminated floats in the Drôme valley and a medieval fortress in the Bourbonnais. Our pick this week: Coutellia, which gathers in Thiers some 300 knifemakers from 23 countries — a one-of-a-kind event globally, still relatively low-profile in the national press.
Coutellia, the world's largest art-knife show in Thiers (Puy-de-Dôme)
On May 16 and 17, Coutellia gathers in Thiers, the historic capital of French cutlery, more than 300 exhibitors from 23 countries. It is simply the world's largest art and tradition knife show. Across 2,500 m² of exhibition space you will meet art knifemakers, traditional smiths, damascus craftsmen, blade engravers and collectors from Japan, the United States, Scandinavia and South Africa. Live forging demonstrations, art-knife competitions, talks on ancient steels, a kids' area for safe initiation: Coutellia is as much a professional trade show as a popular festival. A fascinating dive into living heritage. Very affordable tickets, free parking, direct train access from Clermont-Ferrand.
Nuits Sonores in Lyon, European electronic music at its peak (Rhône)
From May 13 to 17, Nuits Sonores turns Lyon into a vast electronic playground for its 23rd edition. Nearly 200 artists take over the industrial wastelands of Confluence, La Sucrière, port warehouses and unexpected heritage venues. House, techno, ambient, bass experiments: the line-up remains one of Europe's most demanding without losing touch with the dancefloor. The daytime «Days» host talks and meetings at the Hangar du Premier Film, the «Nights» set clubs ablaze until dawn. Alongside Awakenings, Sonar and Time Warp, it ranks among Europe's very biggest club-culture events. Book passes in advance — the festival sells out every year.
Raidlight Trail Festival: 5,000 runners in the Chartreuse range (Isère)
From May 15 to 17, the Raidlight Trail Festival gathers nearly 5,000 trail runners in Saint-Pierre-de-Chartreuse, deep in the regional natural park. Seven races on the programme, from a 4-km vertical kilometre to the 46-km Maratour, plus the Trail des Pucelles and Granding Trail, with elevation gains pushing close to 3,000 metres. It is one of France's flagship trail circuit stops, with a specialised exhibitors' village, adventure film screenings, technique workshops and a friendly crowd. Spectators welcome: the checkpoints offer spectacular views over the massif. Best of all, start and finish sit at 800 metres altitude — you breathe pure Alpine air.
Peinture Fraîche Festival: Lyon's street art cathedral (Rhône)
Throughout May, the Peinture Fraîche Festival takes over an exceptional site in the Lyon metropolis and transforms it into a vast urban-art gallery. Monumental paintings, graffiti, collages, stencils, live performances and immersive installations spread across thousands of square metres. Since 2019, the festival has emerged as France's reference for indoor street art, featuring around 100 French and international artists every edition. Allow two to three hours for the walk-through — ideal for a family or couple outing if you are in Lyon this weekend. Single-price ticket, free entry for children under 10.
Festival Sacrée Musique: chapels and candles in Lyon (Rhône)
The Festival Sacrée Musique wraps up its spring programme this week. Chapels, churches and cathedrals across Lyon and its region turn into ephemeral concert halls lit by thousands of candles. Exceptional choirs, Corsican polyphonies, Gregorian chant, gospel and baroque music: the experience is as sonic as it is visual. Several dates run on Friday and Saturday around Fourvière, Saint-Just and the peninsula. One of those formats where heritage and music elevate one another — don't miss it if you enjoy vocal music in remarkable settings.
Complètement Gaga: Saint-Étienne hits the streets (Loire)
From May 15 to 17, the street arts festival Complètement Gaga takes over the Parc François Mitterrand, the central squares and the Cité du Design in Saint-Étienne. Theatre, dance, circus, walking music: across three days, around thirty French companies offer free, all-ages, demanding programming. Founded in 2019, the festival has become the metropolis's main spring cultural moment. Ideal format for a family day or a budget-friendly trip with friends — most performances are entirely free.
Volvic Volcanic Expérience (VVX): trail running at the foot of the Puys (Puy-de-Dôme)
Last day Friday May 15 for the Volvic Volcanic Expérience, a major sporting and cultural event at the heart of the UNESCO-listed Auvergne Volcanoes Natural Park. Seven trail races from 15 to 224 kilometres, a kids' race and a guided trek cross the unique volcanic landscapes of the Chaîne des Puys. Beyond performance, VVX cultivates a festival spirit: concerts, film screenings, talks on protecting high-altitude environments. Non-runners can still enjoy the village and the scenery — the Puys range in spring remains one of France's finest natural settings.
Thiézac Gastronomy Festival: the best of Cantal (Cantal)
On May 16 and 17, the village of Thiézac in the heart of the Cère valley hosts its Gastronomy Festival. The spotlight falls on the traditional recipes of Haute-Auvergne: pounti, bourriols, stuffed cabbage, truffade, gentian liqueur and, of course, AOP Cantal cheeses. Cooking workshops led by local chefs, a producers' market, guided tastings and animations in regional dialect punctuate the weekend. One of those rural events where you take the time to eat, talk and listen to a valley tell its story — free entry, authentic village atmosphere. Ideal to discover Haute-Auvergne outside tourist season.
Ascension at Château de Hérisson: medieval fortress in full swing (Allier)
On May 15, 16 and 17, the medieval fortress of Hérisson, a former Bourbon stronghold perched above the Aumance river, comes alive thanks to the Rétamés company and the Allen Knights. L'Ascension au Château de Hérisson offers a medieval village, dramatised tours of the ruins, choreographed knight fights, comic sketches and a Saturday-evening fireside tale. The site itself is worth the trip: rocky spur dominating the valley, partly ruined keep, exceptional panorama over the Bourbonnais countryside. Family format, gentle pricing, free parking below. A pleasing trip back to the 14th century, without tourist gimmicks.
Corso Nocturne de Portes-lès-Valence: illuminated floats in the Drôme (Drôme)
On May 16 and 17, the Corso Nocturne de Portes-lès-Valence parades through the town centre. This popular tradition, rooted in the town for over thirty years, gathers around ten decorated and illuminated floats built by local associations over many months. The Saturday-evening parade is the highlight, with orchestras, brass bands and confetti along rue Jean Jaurès. The funfair occupies the central square all weekend. No artistic pretension, but a genuine family and popular atmosphere, heir to the great pre-war Drôme corsos. Free, kid-friendly.
Le Grand Saut: circus and street arts in Annecy (Haute-Savoie)
On May 16 and 17, the Parmelan district in Annecy hosts Le Grand Saut, a free circus and street arts festival. Organised for over twenty-five years by the Parmelan Social and Cultural Centre under various names, the event brings together each year about a dozen contemporary circus companies — acrobats, jugglers, aerialists, balance artists — for two days of open-air shows. On-site food court, kids' initiation workshops, friendly neighbourhood vibe. For circus lovers who want to skip the big paid festivals, a real local gem twenty minutes from Lake Annecy.
Also worth a look this weekend in Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes
- Jazz dans le Bocage wraps up its Bourbonnais tour on Saturday May 16 in the village halls of the Allier bocage.
- Festival Joyeuse Escale closes its four days of travel and adventure cinema in Joyeuse, in the Cevennes Ardèche.
For more regional weekend picks, head to our national agenda. Enjoy the Ascension long weekend.
